watermelon: angel food
commentary by brian parker
published 11 august 2006
 
savor | volume 1 number 4
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"Cookery is not chemistry. It is an art." -X. Marcel Boulestin
 
published since April 2006 | Savor is Brian Parker's passionate affirmation of George Bernard Shaw's statement that "There is no sincerer love than the love of food."
 
 
In addition to being a gourmand and Emmy-awarded set designer, Brian Parker (eMailWeb site), who makes his home in Nashville, Tennessee, helms Parker Designs—a company dedicated to works of great imagination and frequent whimsy.
 
 
 
Speaking of crisp and fruity...Say 'hello' to
Cousino Macul 2004 Riesling Dona Isadora
 
 
painting by Penny Thomas Simpson (Otero Arts Org)
 
 
 

 
 
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Watermelon Slice
by Penny Thomas Simpson

3:10 p.m.. Ninety-seven. Heat index of one hundred two. An extremely cruel list of numbers made doubly wicked by the fact that the air conditioning in my car is broken. Waves shimmer and rise from the hood. I'm behind a frustratingly cautious Crown Victoria. Judge Judy is already ruthlessly berating her first victim, and I'm missing it. In a disheartening attempt to cool things down, I pick up my water bottle and am betrayed by the nauseating flow of hot water down my throat. I moan pathetically.


The one bright spot in my immediate future is a "Sugar Baby" watermelon waiting in my refrigerator. It may seem small consolation to a man whose ankles are charred by the summer fires of hell, but this heat is precisely why the thought of crisp, pink, icy watermelon so wholly consoles me. It's the perfect calming foil for this sweltering temperature. Before Judge Judy yells her last scathing insult, I'll be kicking back on the couch with a cold plate of melon resting on my stomach. The chill of the Corningware, fresh from the fridge, will abate my still burning skin, and I'll be spitting out my first seed.


The summer harvest is a rich, multi-hued parade. But no fruit, no vegetable, no holiday, defines this time of year, for me, like watermelon. Certainly there are more spectacular stars of the season's farm stand—more unique or more flavorful—but none of those so reliably, so humbly, so tenderly satisfy my hunger and thirst on a hot August day. And they're cheap! Like a favorite pair of old blue jeans, watermelon is the best of unpretentious pleasures, the workhorse of summer produce.


And despite all the thumping, sniffing and rejecting that watermelons endure, it's hard to pick out a bad one. Generally, if the rind's hard all the way around, it'll treat you right. You want a good, satisfying, productive thump? Thump the lady in the Crown Victoria, 'cause I've never had any luck thumping watermelons. People say to listen for a slightly hollow sound. I've never heard it. My friend Bob's a serious audiophile. He could probably hear it, but I can't, and I've tried. All I've ever gotten was a sore finger. So, I just look for these two things: a hard rind, and a nice big pale spot where the melon's been sitting on the ground. The bigger the pale spot, the longer the thing's been ripening.


And here's an interesting nutrition fact, culled from new research by the USDA: A watermelon stored at room temperature has a great deal more nutrition than one that's been freshly picked or refrigerated. Now, I'd rather take a brick-shaped multivitamin suppository than eat a warm watermelon, but you can now make that informed decision for yourself. Either way, watermelon's extremely rich in lycopene and an excellent source of vitamins C, A, B6 and B1. Some claim watermelon's also an effective anti-inflammatory—particularly in conditions related to asthma, diabetes and arthritis. 'Good stuff, Maynard.

 
 
 
 

So, eat up! I usually just slice a big hunk and spoon away. I love the contented crunch, the occasional squirt landing on my cheek. And, sometimes, I even love picking out the seeds. With the astounding market growth of seedless watermelons, I often forget the simple joy of those little brown buggers. I like the happy ritual of poking the spoon into the tiny soft pocket of flesh around the seed and pulling it out, the slimy brown teardrop stubbornly pausing on my overturned spoon before it drops with a gentle, splashy "tink" on my plate. There's a really nice, naïve satisfaction from biting into a firm chunk just removed of kernels. Some things are just worth the work. I have nothing against seedless watermelons; in fact, I love them. But a few varieties aren't available in a seedless version and I always smile affectionately when I find the hidden surprise of a watermelon speckled with brown dots.


Most of the late summer, my refrigerator is the unwilling home to any number of melons. Mustards are shoved aside. Jams and preserves stacked. Moldy mysteries are discovered and pitched. The watermelon just takes over. And I'm glad. I go through short phases where I may like one variety over another, but they all taste good to me.


Although I prefer unembellished watermelon, I've been making a delicious watermelon gazpacho for years. And each year, an ingredient gets the axe as the recipe becomes more sparse. My first version included watermelon, tomatoes, cucumber, olive oil, tarragon vinegar, basil, green onion, curry powder, honey, and lime. It was delicious. But now, almost ten years later, the recipe has become the little black dress of my summer recipes. Graceful and refreshing in its straightforward approach, it's a gazpacho containing only three ingredients: watermelon (seedless, for the ease; but you use whatever you desire), cucumber, and cilantro.

 
 
Watermelon Gazpacho | I use about three cups of chopped melon, about one cup of peeled and seeded chopped cucumber, and about two tablespoons of chopped cilantro. In the food processor, I blend all of the cilantro with about a third of the watermelon and cucumber; this is the base of the chilled soup. Then, I add the rest of the ingredients to the food processor and pulse until the largest chunks are no bigger than peas. I refrigerate the soup for half an hour, but no longer than two hours before serving. This will yield two to three servings. Sometimes, I garnish with a dollop of yogurt and cilantro, but unadorned gazpacho is the height of unfussy sophistication.
 
 

This recipe is great for experiments. Substitute mint or basil for the cilantro. Or use all three! Maybe add some jicama. Or you can take the road I took in reverse and try working toward more complex versions. Just be sparing with the more full-flavored ingredients and you almost can't mess this one up. Watermelon gazpacho makes a light and invigorating first course.


If you haven't already consumed your weight in watermelon, get it quick. It won't be long before imported watermelons invade the produce shelves and your chance for eating this unsung summer beauty will be gone. Try a few different strains at a local market. Spend a lazy lunch picking out seeds. Take some time and really savor this simple treat. Mark Twain said that when you taste watermelon, you know what the angels eat. I like that. I think it's true.

 

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