breakfast
commentary by brian parker
published 15 september 2008
 
savor | volume 1 number 15
print
 
"Cookery is not chemistry. It is an art." -X. Marcel Boulestin
 
published since April 2006 | Savor is Brian Parker's passionate affirmation of George Bernard Shaw's statement that "There is no sincerer love than the love of food."
 
 
In addition to being a gourmand and Emmy-awarded set designer, Brian Parker (eMailWeb site), who makes his home in Nashville, Tennessee, helms Parker Designs—a company dedicated to works of great imagination and frequent whimsy.
 
 
 
Publisher: Free Press
(06 May 2003)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0743243668
ISBN-13: 978-0743243667
 
 
 

 
 
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Make time for some slow, sunrise food next time you're confronted
with an open, lazy day.
 
 

Breakfast is at its best and finest when someone else does the cooking. Waking to the smell of sizzling bacon is, doubtlessly, the height of living. It's also a rare treat limited to visits with my mom and dad. After a few lazy turns in bed, I yawn and stretch, adjusting to the preternaturally bright Colorado sun. Invisible tendrils of frying pork fat sneak under the door and tease me. The sharp, smoky scent fills the house and plants a wet, smacking, maternal kiss. In a trance, I shuffle to the kitchen, sleep still in my eyes. Standing at the stove is Mom—happy and comfortable. We hug. Every high and low, every moment of the past four decades, disappears in an insular cloud of peppery bacon and familial love. I could live in this haze forever.


Anywhere you live in the U.S., bacon and eggs are synonymous with breakfast. We eat toast, pancakes, sausages, oatmeal, pastries, pancakes, fruit, ham, dry cereal and multifarious egg creations. But most weekdays, I eat what's handy. Leftover pizza is a favorite; I'll eat almost anything in the morning. Last night, a writer friend from L.A. stayed with us. Into the wee hours, we ate Doublestuf Oreos and critiqued the rough cut of his first full-length film. After four hours of sleep, I was peeling back the shiny blue cellophane and happily eating artificially-flavored sandwich cookies. It's probably been five years since I last ate an Oreo, and it was wonderful.


Typical of many Americans, I'm blissfully haphazard in my breakfast habits. I like to think of breakfast as the "biker chick" of meals—wild and wandering with a "no rules apply" attitude. American cookbook author, Irena Chalmers, unapologetically embodies this spirit of laissez-faire nibbling, "Chocolate cake, I find, is a splendid alternative to bran flakes, first thing in the morning. So is a bowl of cold spaghetti with a scattering of Parmesan cheese—slips down nicely and can be carried around while you dress."


Cultural differences are more pronounced with breakfast. In Japan, you might eat grilled fish and rice. Russians often prefer dark bread, blini, or sausages and pickles. Fresh fruit, yogurt and a dense, chewy roll are consumed in Greece. The French and Italians define "continental" breakfast, focusing on a spare meal of stimulating coffee and bread—respectively café au lait and croissant or espresso and pane uva, a sweet bread bursting with golden raisins.

 
 
wine.com
 
 

From a lifetime of nomadic breakfasts, I have several memories that stand out above the rest.


Dim Sum at the Four Seas Restaurant—San Francisco, California


In the oldest Chinese restaurant in San Francisco, the dining room was bustling with stainless steel carts filled with towers of bamboo steamer baskets. Diminutive Chinese women wound a circuitous route, pushing mobile buffets through the maze of tables. One stopped at our table and opened the baskets to reveal a variety of neatly crafted dumplings. She didn't speak English, so we pointed at what we wanted and took our chances. I sampled wantonly until two particular treats gripped me with delight: banana shrimp egg rolls and dumplings stuffed with pork, chicken and pickled ginger. The egg rolls were tiny, the size of my finger, but loud and joyous with the bright green flavor of under ripe banana and salty, pink, baby shrimp. Not to be outdone, the pork and chicken dumplings sang with effervescent ginger. It was an incomparable, fist-pounding thrill.


Crepe au beurre on the Boulevard St. Germain—Paris, France


I was prepared for a day at the Louvres, heading for Point Neuf when I was sidetracked by the acrobatic movements of a crepe vendor at his cart. With a flourish, he poured creamy batter on to a flat, round griddle. I had tried several types of more extravagant crepes but, on that morning, I opted for the simplest version—crepe au beurre. In mere seconds, I had my order. Fragrant, eggy steam rose from the crepe, butter dripped down my arm as I bit into the moist, sweet folds. I bowed my head. Truly, this was the greatest expression of simple French cuisine, luxuriant but undemanding. The rich, unfussy dough dissolved in the crunch of sugar and the slip of butter. I travel to this memory when my soul craves comfort.


Fried Bluegill and Scrambled Eggs—Long Lake, Michigan


My family had rented a cabin with my Grandma and Grandpa Parker on Long Lake, in northeastern Michigan. Whether or not we liked it, we rose with the sun to go fishing. The bluegills were biting recklessly and we soon had more than we could eat. On a gray, weathered picnic table, we spread out yesterday's newspaper and cleaned the fish. Grandma dredged them in cornmeal and flour, liberally shaking pepper on the filets. Her cast iron skillet was sizzling and the smell of bacon grease filled the kitchen. She fried the bluegill and stacked them on a platter beside a dozen scrambled eggs. The crunch of the fish was impossibly fresh, thick and satisfying, with the gentle grit of corn meal. The many fine bones made eating slow but it was the freshest possible fried fish perfection. Grandma's homespun mastery in the kitchen bordered on supernatural. In heaven, I'm sure she's been awarded a galaxy of Michelin stars and has inspired the angels with her cooking.


It seems, lately, my cooking inspiration comes exclusively on weekend mornings. Unlike our busy weekdays, we keep the early weekend hours slow and mostly to ourselves. This is how Sunday morning often rolls at the Parker-Noland home:


I wake up and it's already eighty degrees and ninety percent humidity. Gussy and Otis whine to go out. While the dogs do their business, I go out to our covered deck and sit in my new, puffy recliner. It's Microsuede. And hideous. When all deeds are accomplished, the three of us go back in the kitchen and, heedless of the torturous August sun, I heat the oven and set my largest sauté pan on a burner to warm. Barry is probably editing photographs, hoping that I think he's still asleep. I thinly slice half a loaf of glossy deep-brown brioche and take my organic milk, organic goat cheese, and organic free-range chicken eggs from the refrigerator. We're having goat cheese stuffed brioche French toast with peach pecan syrup, chicken apple sausages, and sweet potato home fries. It's all deceivingly uncomplicated and every bit as luxurious as it sounds.

 
 
 
 

My friend Lori often calls me later to find out what I'd prepared. When I tell her I made, for instance, a shiitake mushroom, roasted garlic and smoked Gouda frittata, she shrieks with laughter. She finds my excess entertaining. When the laughter finally subsides, she asks about ingredients or technique. Lori is a gourmand with an infallible instinct for creating faultlessly buoyant salad dressings. She's amazing and, in spite of my many shortcuts, thinks I'm a genius. But my breakfast menus are all simple. This one serves four.


Goat Cheese Stuffed Brioche French Toast

8 thin slices of brioche, or bread of your choice
6 oz. softened goat cheese or cream cheese
1 heaping tablespoon of sour cream (substitute milk or heavy cream)
1 Tbsp. honey
4 eggs
1 cup of milk
½ tsp. vanilla bean paste or good vanilla extract
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
½ tsp. ground cinnamon


Mix the goat cheese, sour cream and honey in a bowl until a reasonably uniform texture is achieved. Take two slices of brioche and divide ¼ of the goat cheese mixture between the two slices. Spread the mixture on each piece of bread and sandwich them together. I like to keep the bread in the order that I slice them so the edges match up perfectly. (If your medication is working and your obsessive-compulsive disorder is under control, you need not worry about bread slice perfection.) Repeat these steps until you have four sandwiches.


Beat the remaining ingredients until a nice layer of froth develops. Pour the egg and milk mixture into a large, rectangular baking sheet. Soak both sides of the sandwiches in the mixture and fry until golden brown.


This is a basic French toast recipe dressed up by a few nicer ingredients. Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla Bean Paste is a terrific substitute for the expensive whole vanilla beans. Williams-Sonoma and Sur La Table both carry this product.


If you're in a more romantic mood, use Nutella instead of the goat cheese mixture and serve it with warm maple syrup and fresh strawberries.


Peach Pecan Syrup

½ cup maple syrup
½ cup peach preserves (or substitute with other fruit preserves)
A small handful of chopped, toasted pecans

Mix all ingredients and heat on the stove or microwave. Myriad syrups can be made with jams and honey or maple syrup.


Sweet Potato Home Fries

2 med. sweet potatoes washed and cut into ½ inch cubes.
3 Tbsp. olive oil or canola oil
½ tsp. cinnamon
½ tsp. cumin
Salt and pepper to taste


Mix all the ingredients on a large baking sheet and roast at 400 degrees until nicely browned, 10-15 minutes. Substitute any spices to your liking. Ginger is very nice. Sweet potatoes go savory or sweet with ease, so be creative.


Serve the French toast and home fries with browned sausage of your choice. I like Adelle's chicken apple sausage.


This menu is impressive and forgiving, favorable attributes for a stress-free Sunday morning. And there's great opportunity for altering the ingredients to your taste. Monday through Friday, I'll be noshing on the flotsam of my pantry. But I encourage you to make time for some slow, sunrise food next time you're confronted with an open, lazy day. Wake up leisurely, skip the cold spaghetti, and eat breakfast intentionally.

 
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